‘Saree’ is the oldest form of garment which has been surviving in the 21st century starting back in 3300 BCE. The traditional saree is not just a piece of clothing; it is a symbol of femininity, beauty, and class. It is the perfect representation of the Indian woman's grace, style, and sophistication. The free-flowing pallu gives it royal heiress vibes making it the no. 1 choice of Indian women. Let it be a party, festival, or wedding, this garment can be worn in all forms of celebrations. It is a fashion statement that celebrates the culture and diversity of India, yet manages to be the epitome of grace and sophistication.
Art by - M. V. Dhurandhar
“An Indian woman doesn’t shy away from flaunting her curves in a sari, it’s extremely versatile, it suits every body type, it suits every face.” - Bollywood actress Vidya Balan.
Saree has been carrying a long history with itself. The Indus Valley civilization has shown some traces of draping a cloth around the waist to form something we call today as trousers. Cotton was introduced to the Indus Valley civilization by the Mesopotamian civilization, where people used long unstitched cotton cloth to cover their lower bodies. Women in that wore loin cloth covering the lower body and keeping the upper body bare only in winter, they wore animal skin to protect themselves from harsh cold climates.
Dancing girl artifact found in Mohenjo-daro | Art by Raja Ravi Varma | Priest King Mohenjo-daro
Aryans came into the northern part of India introducing woollen and leather to the people. As Aryans used to live in very cold climates they used long jackets made of woollen and leather. Being influenced by this the people started wearing long jackets above their loin cloth. But It cannot be denied that today's glamorous saree worn by Indian women evolved from simple loincloths worn by women back in the Indus Valley civilization.
The Persians when they came to India bought the art of Stichting which was not known to the Indian subcontinent. Persian women wore loose jackets to cover their upper bodies. Inspired by this Indian women started wearing short jackets to cover their torsos above the draped waist, this eventually transformed into a blouse which is called a choli. Choli is a tight-fitted, short blouse worn over a lehenga or saree in the traditional form of clothing. A good-fitted blouse was worn over the draped cloth and a loose-fitted blouse was worn over kurtas.
The Persians also introduced the art of stichting pearls and colourful stones into clothes. This enhanced the beauty of the saree giving it a sparkling look. Many royals, kings, and queens wore garments embellished with golds and diamonds. The Queens gave the saree the glamour and beauty which is why the saree is still adorned by Indian women.
Gayatri Devi
Queen Victoria
Back then sarees weren’t just plain white in colour, but they were in all forms of colours like pink, red, yellow, and blue. Sarees were dyed using natural colours from different natural colouring agents like turmeric for yellow, Flowers, and fruits for red, pink, and blue. Among all these the most used colour was taken from the silk cotton tree, which yielded a yellow-orange colour known as Kesari, which was favoured not only for royal costumes but also for robes made for idols in many temples. This beautiful shade of Kesari has been treasured for centuries and continues to be highly sought after today, it is still used in many celebrations and festivals in India.
The Dhoti-style saree form is also very old with all the ancient paintings and sculptures depicting women wearing a pleated form of draped cloth on the waist. A dhoti-style saree was advantageous because it enabled easy leg movements. The pleats were formed in front of the waist and tucked in the back. This allowed women to move freely and easily. The pleats also made the saree more visually appealing. It also made it easier to adjust the clothing according to the body shape. This form of saree is still popular today in many parts of India but is mostly seen in Maharashtra. This Traditional Maharashtrian dhoti-style saree is still popular and is worn as a traditional wedding outfit by brides.
Dhoti style saree drape
The saree’s length determines how one wants to drape it, the old 9-yard saree gave women the freedom to drape it however they want to making it a easily customizable outfit but this typical long 9-yard saree is only worn by old ladies of India today, which can be worn without a petticoat. This 9-yard saree is known as nauvari in the Marathi language which means, ‘9 yards’. But don’t get me wrong this 9-yard-long saree is only one form of saree, nowadays there are many different lengths of sarees available in India. The short-length sarees are available up to 5-6 metres and also you can find a ready-to-wear stitched saree to avoid the hassle of draping. Because of this decrease in the length of the saree, it made it easy and comfortable to handle.
Saree is traditionally worn overall in India, because of this the types and styles of the saree differ. Here are some of the most famous and widely worn saree styles in India.
Kanjeevaram Saree from Tamil Nadu
One of the most famous sarees in the world is the Kanjeevaram saree, which was named after the place of origin, Kanchipuram, a beautiful place in the south of India, Hence it is also known as Kanchipuram saree.
Kanjeevaram saree is known as Banarasi saree of South India, the most opulent form of this saree is made of pure mulberry silk with gold and silver zari work. With its heavy zari work, it makes it an Indian saree for weddings.
This saree is mostly worn by South Indian brides at weddings, but it can also be worn on any occasion.
Rekha in Kanjeevaram Saree
Nauvari Saree from Maharashtra
Nauvari saree (9 yards long) also known as kaashtha saree is the most popular form of draped saree worn in Maharashtra, a state of India. This saree form became popular in the late 1800s. During the reign of Marathas in Maharashtra, women wore nauvari saree as it helped in free leg movements assisting the women to fight.
Nowadays women wear nauvari sarees at different festivals and weddings.
Madhuri Dixit in Nauvari Saree
Bandhani Saree from Gujarat / Rajasthan
Bandhani saree is known to have originated in the times of Banabhatt a court poet of Harsha in 600 CE, it was worn on a royal wedding ceremony at the time. This form of saree is typically found in Gujarat and Rajasthan region. The fabric of this saree is the lightest due to the extreme climate in these regions making it easy to carry. Most of rural Indian women wear this saree on a day to day basis.
Nita Ambani in Georgeus Bandhani Saree
Banarasi Saree from Varanasi
Banarasi Saree as its name suggests originated in Banaras also known as Varanasi / Kashi, which is an oldest spiritually important city of India. This silk saree Banarasi is stated to have originated around the 14th century, where it was purely made of silk with silver and gold zari work on it.
Nowadays, women wear this saree on special occasions.
Deepika Padukone in a classic Banarasi saree
Tant saree from West Bengal
Tant saree is simple yet beautiful, mostly worn by Bengali women on the occasion of Durga puja or Bengali marriages. The contrast colour combination of red and white is what makes it so alluring. This saree type is plain white in the middle of part of it but has a heavy zari work done on its pallu. The saree is made of airy and light material for the humid climate in the region.
Chikankari Saree from Lucknow
The Lucknowi Chikankari design is very famous around the world. It is known for its minutely crafted designs and heavy embroidery with light colours. These types of sarees can be worn anytime and anywhere as these saree aren’t as flashy and festive as the others on the list. Chikankari designs were introduced by Persians in ancient India and now it has become an integral part of India.
Comfortable modern wear saree -
Georgette Saree Modern Indian wear
Chiffon Saree
Silk Saree
The saree has not lost its charm, even though centuries have passed since it was conceived as the Indian woman's hereditary dress. Its beauty and incomparable quality makes it suitable for the smallest of girls and the oldest of women alike. Despite technological advances in each decade, it continues to be well accepted by even the most modern women of the subcontinent. Although the saree may have evolved a lot from its origin, still it has a limitless future. Even today the garment is passed on from generation to generation as a form of wedding attire.
Even today Indian women buy sarees with great passion, and it is still formally worn at weddings and festivals.
- By Tejal Patil
