Introduction
Navratri, meaning "nine nights," is a vibrant festival celebrated across India during the onset of spring and autumn. This festival honors the nine forms or avatars of the Goddess Devi, with celebrations and traditional attire varying by region. The dates of Navratri are determined by the Hindu lunar calendar, leading to variations each year. During this period, many people fast to seek the blessings of the Devi. Some break their fast on the morning of Ashtami, the 8th day of Navratri, after the final prayers, while others do so the next day. These nine days are marked by lively festivities, with women donning traditional Indian ethnic wear.
History
The origins of Navratri can be traced back to the Vedic Age in India. According to mythology, following the death of King Dooshibago, various royal families vied for control of the throne, leading to a conflict. The eventual victor, King Yudhajit, placed his grandson, Prince Sudarsana, on the throne. The prince was introduced to a hermit and his eunuch friend named Kleeba. Upon mishearing the name as "Kleem," a syllable used to invoke the Devi, the prince experienced enlightenment and peace. The king was thereafter celebrated throughout the kingdom, blessed with the perpetual presence of the Devi.
Regional Celebrations & Attire:
Gujarat and Rajasthan
Navratri is most prominently celebrated in Gujarat and Rajasthan, where Garba and Dandiya Raas dance parties are a hallmark of the festival. These energetic folk dances are performed with great enthusiasm, often accompanied by songs dedicated to the Devi and Lord Krishna.
Women have a wide array of ethnic dresses to choose from during Navratri, with the Ghagra Choli for Navratri (also known as Lehenga Choli) being the most popular choice. This traditional outfit consists of three main components: the choli (blouse), the Navratri lehenga (a long, flowing skirt), and the dupatta (an Indian stole). The lehenga’s flowing design allows for ease of movement, making it ideal for dancing.
The choli can vary in style, ranging from a fitted crop top adorned with intricate embroidery to a more traditional blouse extending to the waist. The dupatta, once used for modesty, is now a fashion statement, often made of lightweight fabric with exquisite embellishments like stonework or Zari. The Navratri lehenga is crafted from lighter fabrics to facilitate movement, yet it is richly decorated with stones, sequins, and other festive elements.
Bandhani, or Bandhej, is another traditional fabric style closely associated with Gujarat and Navratri. This tie-dye technique produces intricate patterns on fabrics like cotton, chiffon, georgette, and crepe, often in colors like red, yellow, green, black, or blue. The resulting motifs include squares, dots, stripes, and waves, making Bandhani outfits a popular choice for the festival.
Men typically wear kurta pajamas or dhoti pants during Navratri, often in vibrant colors like red, yellow, blue, or black. These garments feature heavy embroidery and mirror work, similar to the women’s attire.
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Bengal
In Bengal, Navratri is celebrated as Durga Puja, one of the most significant festivals for Bengalis. During this time, pandals (temporary altars) are set up for worship and dance in honor of the Goddess Durga.
Women traditionally wear tant sarees during Durga Puja. Made of muslin, these sarees have a history dating back to the Mughal era. The process begins with weaving cotton into thread, which is then used to create the saree fabric. The most common tant saree is white with thick red borders, though newer designs feature paisley and floral motifs.
Bengali women also adorn their hands with mehendi (henna), applied in unique patterns that cover only the tips of their fingers and a circle in the center of the palm. Some also apply white dots around their eyes and on their foreheads. Men typically wear plain white kurta pajamas, with the kurtas reaching the knees and the pajamas being slim-fitted and tied with a drawstring.
Other Parts of India
In other regions of India, Navratri may not be as extensively celebrated as in Gujarat or Bengal. However, women generally wear comfortable ethnic attire, such as salwar kameez sets, for the final puja.
Global Influences and Modern Interpretations
Global fashion trends have significantly influenced traditional Navratri attire. Designers now create lehenga cholis and sarees that incorporate Western elements, such as crop tops, backless blouses, and spaghetti straps.
Navratri is also celebrated internationally in countries like England, Canada, and Australia, where Indian communities observe the festival with song and dance. Ethnic Indian outfits have gained popularity among people of other cultures who participate in these celebrations, making lehenga cholis a novelty for many.
Interesting Facts
- The largest Navratri festival in the world is held in Toronto.
- Theme-based pandals are a popular trend in India, with recent themes including Harry Potter and Titanic.
- Kolkata alone hosts over 2,000 pandals during Durga Puja.
- The Garba dance symbolizes the Hindu cycle of life.
More:
Guide to the Significance of Navratri